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758
True that! Also IMHO I mounted the completed heat sink assemblies so that the power resistors are on “top”, so as to not heat (as much) the electrolytic caps for longer life.
FWIW blue LEDs usually require a slightly higher voltage to “fire”, I bet they were fine. I used a 9v battery w/the 39K resistor (for the back panel switch) to test mine, AOK. Bet your diode check function puts out <3 volts. Off topic FWIW2 testing microwave HV diodes (multi-junction) also requires an additional external series trigger voltage, again I use a 9v battery in series w/my meter.