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692
My V1.8 came with two reds and two blues. Using my multi-meter's diode test mode the red ones lit up fine, but not the blue. So I used the blues as test dummies for various mounting ideas, trying heatshrink, etc. Heatshrink is not meant for this purpose. I tried a bit of Joe’s Sticky Stuff- messy. I did heatshrink the soldered connections, but not the LEDs.
I had a couple of inches of doubled lead to spare, so I used the twisted lead’s natural springiness to push the LEDs into the hole, where they seem to want stay put. I may add just a drop of silicone to discourage them from coming out.
Rest both heatsinks on a perfectly flat surface in exactly the same way when screwing them to the front plate. Allow the front plate to hang freely when tightening. You can attach the heatsinks at different times if you do the second exactly as the first. The slop will allow you to adjust the height of the front plate a little.
The covers only attach to the heatsinks. All my holes on the covers and the back plate lined up almost perfectly. When I added the second heat sink I needed to loosen the back plate screws on the other heat sink just a bit, but I did not need to mess with the front plate screws. This is a very well made and thought out enclosure.
After soldering Q1 and Q2, do NOT clip off the excess leads. See step 51. You will need to attach your multi-meter to pin 2 of Q1 in order to adjust the pot. I am very pleased that somehow I left these pins intact.
If you can see the lock-washer, make sure it’s compressed enough so it’s flat. Much more than that is probably a bit much.
On the solder- I used the Fire Metall Eutectic to start. It melts easily, but it’s really skinny- 0.020" (0.5mm) diameter. For me it’s a bit awkward- it bends easily, and I needed what seemed like a lot for each hole on the PCB.
Anyway, I had some Cardas Quad eutectic which I went to when wiring the PCB to the front and back panels- much easier for me.
Maybe something to do with being 69, and using an Optivisor over my reading glasses?
If you are 25 I’m sure the Fire Metall is great.
Woops. Should have applied to speaker terminals not RCAs.
V1.8 July 2020 purchase
Both the post and the tab want to turn when getting tight, and the tab wants to hang down. I held the back plate securely upside down on edge on my solder mat so the tab would hang down (result up), then I held a skinny screwdriver through the post hole into the mat. A spare finger kept the tabs down.
I used a 7mm nut driver in my case. I also put the stepped washers inside the case.
I am populating the back plate first before soldering any wires. I hope to have the 1.8 wiring diagram figured out before that.
https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipPl...
I posted this on the nascent 1.8 guide:
I’ve annotated a photo of the board with the resistor measurements. This way it’s really easy to check the resistances before soldering, particularly for the tiny resistors. It means I can skip a mental step and refer to only one document. Plus the board’s resistor numbers are obscured by the actual resistors, which otherwise complicates checking. It seems like an obvious thing to me. I’ve bought two amps, doing four boards, so something like this will make the project easier and more fun for me. I do NOT want to de-solder mistakes.
Has my effort been done? Are all my numbers correct?
I’ve annotated a photo of the board with the resistor measurements. This way it’s really easy to check the resistances before soldering, particularly for the tiny resistors. It means I can skip a mental step and refer to only one document. Plus the board’s resistor numbers are obscured by the actual resistors, which otherwise complicates checking. It seems like an obvious thing to me. I’ve bought two amps, doing four boards, so something like this will make the project easier and more fun for me. I do NOT want to de-solder mistakes.
Has my effort been done? Are all my numbers correct?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/RmDMN5XqTerufN...